Remove the old battery and put in a battery holder for a CR2032 coin cell instead. Replace R26 with a diode, eg 1N4148 or 1N914 (cathode facing D9) and remove C21.

sequentialsoftshock wrote:I have a PDF copy, PM your email address.

I´ve also been looking all over for it - would you mind sending me a copy as well?

Problem solved! The battery is located on the KLM-292 (the largest board on the front panel) Unfortunately you have to remove the entire board from the panel, desoldering the five power connections. Remove the old battery and put in a battery holder for a CR2032 coin cell instead. Replace R26 with a...

Have to agree with Sam. The only way to get it back to working order is to pull out the schematic and measure EVERY trace from the processor to IC30 and 31 and outwards. Painstaking, I know, but it´s the only way. I haven´t gotten as far as repairing 8 Polysixes yet (just 6 :) ) and ALL of them have...

If you can wait until monday next week, I´ll pop the hood open on my MkI and have a look. I just bought the Trident and was thinking of replacing the battery myself!

Not too sure about the 6514... OK, it´s a pin for pin replacement and I´m sure it will work, but looking at the datasheets for both the TC5514APL and the 6514 reveals that the standby current for the 6514 can be up to 50 times higher than the 5514. Battery lifetime will be really short. Instead of 1...

lovedroid wrote: And I think that there are more Yamaha keyboards that transmit PolyAT, I've read that about the KX88.

Sorry, but the KX88 only does channel aftertouch, otherwise it´s a brilliant keyboard...

plus321 wrote:Since the Mono/Poly uses S-trig on the arp clock, then I would assume that the Polysix does as well.

Your assumption is correct. Just checked the schematic and yes - the Polysix uses S-trig

Synthaholic wrote:So, what did you do to fix it?

Exactly - was I even close?

If the effect board is working properly in another P6, the problem must be either on the KLM-367 board or on KLM-370. I´d put my money on the KLM-367. Lets first establish if it´s a input or output problem. The “ensemble” position on the effects switch is read by the microprocessor through lines DO2...

Try http://www.vintageplanet.nl/ He´s got the 3-way rotary switch for sale.

But before you start replacing the switch, try checking it with a ohm-meter.

I fixed one with similar symptoms a few weeks ago. Apart from replacing the battery I wound up reparing 11 damaged traces under the chip closest to the battery, despite very little visible leakage...

Brilliant! I´ve been searching the service manual for the Juno-60 for a long time... Cheers!

hageir wrote: no problem man, I'll pass you on all the info I've found so far..
I'll pm you!

Could you please pass it on to me as well? I just got hold of a MultiTrak and guess what - the battery´s dead...