Some other things you might want that I usually have to order when restoring a LinnDrum: Slider Caps - Mountain Switch 10TB002 (black) http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mountain-Switch/10TB002/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhIVyS9IdIeCeFCY6%2f%2fXyfFrsfDujXLji4%3d Battery: Power-Sonic 3.6v NiCd - PCBM-3.6 http:/...

It's a screw thread mounted cap. This is what you want:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 303U16BA2B

You can also tell (for the most part...I few rare exceptions have been found) by the extra screw on the front panel near the VCA drawing. Extra screw=Lm13600 filter. No screw=35 filter.

I also make some adapters for using newer Bourns PTL sliders (the LED ones) inside some of the old ARPs. That is the ones that use the CTS 5700 series. A full list is on the site.

http://www.gmusynth.com/collections/ret ... tl-adapter

I restore tons of Omni's and Omni 2's. I usually get $800-$1000 for a fully restored Omni. The Omni 2's indeed sell for more: $1100-$1300.

Why? It makes no sense what so ever. The Omni 1 sounds better in my opinion. And the bass goes through the synth filter...which it doesn't on the Omni 2.

Ko Okatake is a well known analog synth tech in Japan. Also, you can ask over on the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/vintagesynthrepair/ There's several guys from Japan on there.

Replace the foam for sure. In the Rogue era Moogs it's a nightmare...as it turns to tar. My shop floor is stained with spots of Moog foam tar. Some folks use neoprene, and others EVA foam, often available in crafts stores. Stick the material sheet under the panel and mark the slots with a pencil. Th...

Pretty common issue. The tact switches tend to fail over time. Part of the typical restore practice is to replace all of them. Suitable replacement parts are: Multicomp MC32862, or ALPS SKHHPKA010. I use the ALPS ones.

You have one voice chip out. Notice that it happens every 6th note is dropped. As you trigger a single key, the CPU rotates the chip being used. One of the 6 is failed / failing. Lots of threads on chip replacement with new clones like Analog Renaissance, or by stripping the epoxy covering with acet...

In your photos, you still show some tants on the synth board. But, you need to measure the AR functions and double check some things on the String board: Double check the release slider works, and check caps C17 and C18 (tants). Double check the string board path to ground. One of these paths is thr...

Likely a mechanical problem with the pedal contacts. Open it up, and you'll notice there's two circuits going on: one for the trigger, one for the CV. Your triggers are working, but your CV is not. It works off low note priority...so you could have a low contact stuck. The contacts are springs that ...

many thanks for the heads up ;) Very interesting group , I wish I could preview the topics there but it is not possible since I dont have a FB account. It's worth getting an account. It's a great cross-functional group of people: synth enthusiasts, prof keyboard techs, seasoned veterans, and just v...

Hey man, you might try heading over to the vintage synth repair group on facebook.

I asked some general power supply design questions and got a lot of good info...some on Low ESR caps. Awesome group of guys as well.

rhino,

Did you happen replace the cpu with the original Z8400APS? Or did you use a more readily available modern version. I'm not sure, but it looks like I could use Z84C006. Not real familiar with this stuff. Any ideas?

Oh man, the pitch to voltage section is over my head. And the series of six invertors? WTF! On the ESP board, VR1 is another of those offsets on a voltage follower op amp, TL081. My guess is VR1 is for trimming the zero output state. VR2 I have no idea. On the filter, my MS-20 has the Korg35s, so no...