I just talked to roland now and you can buy a new keybed for 360. I think I'll just do the fix if or when it gets bad. That's too much money for me.

Cool, I would appreciate the tact switch numbers. I'll just do them all at once. I opened it up and found some of the red glue had filled the hole on the full velocity key so it was pressing down way sooner than the others. Just scooped it out and it's fine. It's a really nice keyboard. Good sounds....

Hi, I just got a jd800 today. It's really nice; sounds great. It has a few things. I wanted to see if anyone knew off hand before I open it or talk to the seller about it. Some of the switches need to be pressed firmly to get a response. Can they be cleaned? Are they tact switches? The DEC/NO button...

I think there is a sysex receive parameter that needs to be set to on. If you have that, maybe try to find a baud/transfer rate setting and slow it down. Sometimes the programs are sending too much too fast.

*transfer rate in the computer program

I can't remember how to do it on earlier electribes, but you have to save the pattern set. Like when you're holding it down, press write. Try that.

I think they are not that easy to get. I think they're basically the same on an sp12 and I was looking around for those and couldn't find much about them. They can usually be cleaned though. Could be worth a shot. Here is a page I found awhile ago. http://www.electrongate.com/dmxfiles/switch_cleanin...

I had a TX802 for a long time. I hated it because it didn't have a data slider. I feel like it really makes a big difference when editing something that complex. I got a TX81Z later to replace it, but if I ever got another fm synth, it would definitely have a data slider. It's too annoying to progra...

Contrast might be pin 3 on your display. I just put one in my sp12 and I wired a 10k pot. I just jumped the ground and 5v from pins 1 and 2 on the display to the inputs of the pot and then the wiper out to pin 3 of the display. and knob adjusts contrast. Then you can mount the knob somewhere or find...

Yeah, don't try to just drop in any oled, I guess. I did it yesterday on my sp12 and it wouldn't display right because it wasn't 100% compatible with older stuff. It would write the characters backwards. I think with an LCD you will probably be fine. If your 16 pin lcd has an LED backlight and not a...

I think you would need to put in an inverter circuit to power the backlight which would be pins 15 & 16. I think these didn't have a backlit display. Just don't hook up 15 and 16 and it will probably work with no backlight. An oled doesn't need those connections either, but would probably be harder ...

I changed the pots on my pro-one and used new knobs so I have the original knobs I want to sell to try to recoup some of the cost.

They are used from my pro-one so they need cleaned, but work fine. Just to clarify, it's just the knob, not the potentiometer.

$2 each or 3 for $5 + shipping

My pro-one tunes and scales fine but its about 1.5 semitones off via cv in. I can tune my converter to compensate, but is there an easier way. Didn't see anything about it in the manual or is it a problem?

alesis q49

Yeah, I would say Korg ES-1 or ESX is even better with decay and extra outs. I can't think of any analog drum machines under $300. Maybe a 606 if you get lucky. Or, like somebody said, Korg Volca Beats. KR-55, but it's all preset.

S950 can timestretch. I think TX16W can with Typhoon OS, but I'm not sure. If you don't care that much about "lofi," try to find like an s2800 or something. I once got one for $20 when I was buying a case off a guy. S3000 series Akai are really cool. Definitely cool with the extra filter card, but s...