pics:


Next, I want to add a rotary encoder for faster scrolling through parameter values, but that's a little more complicated.
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It's just a standard 16x2 lcd (HD44780). I just bought the cheapest one I could find on ebay.Silverfish wrote:Excellent! I've seen this mod a few times on various CZ models. I'd like to do this to my CZ3000 some time.
Is the LCD anything in particular, or just a "regular" 16x2 LCD?
I don't have any links with instructions, but I used this picture for reference to make sure I didn't wire it up backwards:gmeredith wrote:Do you have some DIY links to this mod? Did a search but nothing showing how to, or where to buy the display and its part number. I have a CZ101 just itching for a bit of blue![]()
Cheers, Graham
**EDIT** just posted a fraction after you did - thanks for the info!
That's the coolest looking backlit screen I've seen. Nice job. Small correction- the CZ-5000 has no backlight either. Only the CZ-1 has this, using EL foil.Projectile wrote:I love the Casio CZ series synthesizers, but all of them except the cz1 and cz5000 suffer from having dim grey screens with no backlight
Since there seems to be a lot of interest in this mod, I'll post whatever info I can.drawtippy wrote: Please, any more info on the install would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the info. So it sounds like the cz101 is already wired for power, it just doesn't useProjectile wrote:Since there seems to be a lot of interest in this mod, I'll post whatever info I can.drawtippy wrote: Please, any more info on the install would be greatly appreciated!
The LCD board in the cz101 has 14 pins. Most of the backlit screens sold on ebay have 16 pins. The extra 2 pins are for power and ground to the backlight. you simply need to jumper these 2 pins to the existing power and ground pins. On my cz101 the power wire was white and the ground wire is red, and they are the first or the last 2 pins depending on which direction you are counting from. Aside from the 2 extra pins, all HD44780 LCD display boards should have the same pinout, so as long as you keep the wires in the same order, the worst you can do is hook it up backwards.
Here is an HD44780 pinout diagram for reference:
http://www.instructables.com/image/FMCP ... pinout.jpg
Everything else should be pretty straight forward. If you need any help, feel free to post your questions here and I'll try to answer as best I can.
The original display is not "passive". It doesn't have a backlight, but it still needs +5v to operate. The +5v wire that supplies power to the original display seems to be able to handle enough current to supply a typical backlit LCD just fine. Most replacement LCDs have 2 pins which require a +5v connection: one for power to the display, and one for the backlight. You have to connect these pins together (and the two grounds pins), so that they both recieve +5v from the single power wire connected to the original display. You can find them by looking at the HD44780 pinout diagram I posted. All of the wires you need are soldered to the original display board. You simply have to desolder them, and connect them in the right order to the new LCD board, plus the two jumpers.slippast wrote: Thanks for the info. So it sounds like the cz101 is already wired for power, it just doesn't use
that in the passive display? When you say 'jumper these 2 pins' is it obvious where they connect on the CZ? Please forgive my ignorance, this sounds like a project that A) I could pull off and B) I could afford.
Is in necessary to disassemble the entire keyboard or can you pull the LCD from the front? I may splurge with an extra $3 and go for orange or red. Thanks again.