KAWAI K5000 Cool Blue LCD!

[BulletZ]

My PSU failed in exactly the same way as yours - it's very under-engineered and it seems Kawai made a poor choice of fuse rating and rather than just taking out the fuse it takes out the chopper transistor in the SMPSU as well.

I wish people would read service manuals when they are available. The PSU is not "very under-engineered". It errs on the cheap side for foolproof protection and noise filtering, but it's an OK PSU otherwise. Besides you can't really expect the manufacturer to protect its hardware against user modifications...

If you had actually derived the +5V from the LCD power block instead of tapping into the floppy or someplace else, this would have been avoided. The LCD powerblock is protected by a thermistor that would have likely tripped upon short:



I just replaced my dying original LCD by a "blackline" double FSTN LCD (blackline is the new cool blue) which I got there, very nice displays: http://www.artronic.com.pl/o_produkcie.php?id=775 (this guy has an eBay store - in english ), and it required zero modification (all pins connected). I powered the A/K pins (LED backlighting) from C14 on the PSU, which is the input capacitor to the inverter stage, and it comes after the thermistor. Rather than desoldering Q3, I chose the somewhat more drastic option to cut the PCB track between C14 "+" and Q3's Collector. If I ever want to go back to EL lighting, I can drop a bit of solder and back it is: no component lost.

I've noticed someone mentioned the Wavestation A/D in the thread: these LCDs do work there too (I've replaced mine with a black on white), but there's a bit of modification to do for contrast adjustment, as explained here: http://www.tellun.com/wavestation/wavestation.html

Anyway, here's the result, it fits really well with the black border:

[synthroom]

Looks great! Thanks for posting!

I put a new display in my EII, but I'm getting some garbled text. I seem to have a bad solder joint somewhere...

[HideawayStudio]

I wish people would read service manuals when they are available. The PSU is not "very under-engineered". It errs on the cheap side for foolproof protection and noise filtering, but it's an OK PSU otherwise. Besides you can't really expect the manufacturer to protect its hardware against user modifications...

My main gripe with this design is that the FS mode line to display is straight off the PSU rail. It is generally bad practice to assert a mode line (and especially via an interboard pin header) without a standoff resistor in the way.

In my case the thermistor didn't fail - the regulator did and instantly simply because the FS line was grounded by the new display.

[HideawayStudio]

Looks great! Thanks for posting!

I put a new display in my EII, but I'm getting some garbled text. I seem to have a bad solder joint somewhere...

If the text is garbled on one line only then you have a subtle timing issue. There is a quick and dirty fix to this by slugging one of the control lines with a very small capacitor. If this is your specific problem then PM me.

[aao62]

Hi.
I'm new here. But I have a problem.
I replaced the screen on my Kawai K5000R Ebay
And i was very happy that it works, but five minutes later my happiness came to an end.
The display works properly for five minutes, and then the picture changes (stretched). The sound is working correctly, but the display ...
If I turn off and turn on again, the same thing happens (the display is working properly for five minutes, and then the image changes). Power transistor (Q2) on my power supply was not!
What did I do wrong?
Old display operated for 5 minutes and vanished symbols.
Sorry for my English.

[HideawayStudio]

Hi.
I'm new here. But I have a problem.
I replaced the screen on my Kawai K5000R Ebay
And i was very happy that it works, but five minutes later my happiness came to an end.
The display works properly for five minutes, and then the picture changes (stretched). The sound is working correctly, but the display ...
If I turn off and turn on again, the same thing happens (the display is working properly for five minutes, and then the image changes). Power transistor (Q2) on my power supply was not!
What did I do wrong?
Old display operated for 5 minutes and vanished symbols.
Sorry for my English.

On the new display it looks like your Font Selection (FS) is configured wrongly - what you are seeing on the screen is exactly what happens when the display is set to the wrong mode. These displays usually have two modes of operation which are set by a jumper or a solder pad on the pcb on the underside of the display.

My display did the same thing until I configured it as shown earlier in this thread. If your display is not exactly the same part then it will probably have similar configuration jumpers but they will not be in the same place on the pcb.

You will probably find your unused FS pin on the display traces back to some solder pads which are used for setting whether this pin is grounded or connected to 5 volts. This is how the display mode is set.

[aao62]

Hi.
I'm new here. But I have a problem.
I replaced the screen on my Kawai K5000R Ebay
And i was very happy that it works, but five minutes later my happiness came to an end.
The display works properly for five minutes, and then the picture changes (stretched). The sound is working correctly, but the display ...
If I turn off and turn on again, the same thing happens (the display is working properly for five minutes, and then the image changes). Power transistor (Q2) on my power supply was not!
What did I do wrong?
Old display operated for 5 minutes and vanished symbols.
Sorry for my English.

On the new display it looks like your Font Selection (FS) is configured wrongly - what you are seeing on the screen is exactly what happens when the display is set to the wrong mode. These displays usually have two modes of operation which are set by a jumper or a solder pad on the pcb on the underside of the display.

My display did the same thing until I configured it as shown earlier in this thread. If your display is not exactly the same part then it will probably have similar configuration jumpers but they will not be in the same place on the pcb.

You will probably find your unused FS pin on the display traces back to some solder pads which are used for setting whether this pin is grounded or connected to 5 volts. This is how the display mode is set.

Thanks for the quick response.
I carefully read all of your messages here, but ...
I know how to solder and twist screws, but absolutely nothing about electronic circuits.
Could you write exactly what I need to do, what would it work properly?
A detailed description of the display is on page Ebey.
Thank you very much for your help!

[HideawayStudio]

Hi.
I'm new here. But I have a problem.
I replaced the screen on my Kawai K5000R Ebay
And i was very happy that it works, but five minutes later my happiness came to an end.
The display works properly for five minutes, and then the picture changes (stretched). The sound is working correctly, but the display ...
If I turn off and turn on again, the same thing happens (the display is working properly for five minutes, and then the image changes). Power transistor (Q2) on my power supply was not!
What did I do wrong?
Old display operated for 5 minutes and vanished symbols.
Sorry for my English.

On the new display it looks like your Font Selection (FS) is configured wrongly - what you are seeing on the screen is exactly what happens when the display is set to the wrong mode. These displays usually have two modes of operation which are set by a jumper or a solder pad on the pcb on the underside of the display.

My display did the same thing until I configured it as shown earlier in this thread. If your display is not exactly the same part then it will probably have similar configuration jumpers but they will not be in the same place on the pcb.

You will probably find your unused FS pin on the display traces back to some solder pads which are used for setting whether this pin is grounded or connected to 5 volts. This is how the display mode is set.

Thanks for the quick response.
I carefully read all of your messages here, but ...
I know how to solder and twist screws, but absolutely nothing about electronic circuits.
Could you write exactly what I need to do, what would it work properly?
A detailed description of the display is on page Ebey.
Thank you very much for your help!

There don't appear to be any manual configuration jumpers on this display so try soldering a 1K through-hole resistor between the unused pin 19 (FS) and pin 3 (5 Volts) on the display. This should put the display in 6 by 8 mode.

[aao62]

Thanks you! Problem solved!

[HideawayStudio]

Thanks you! Problem solved!

AWESOME! That's great news...

[Evil Dragon]

I just replaced my dying original LCD by a "blackline" double FSTN LCD (blackline is the new cool blue) which I got there, very nice displays: http://www.artronic.com.pl/o_produkcie.php?id=775 (this guy has an eBay store - in english ), and it required zero modification (all pins connected).

Hello everyone (Hi Dan! )! I'm new here, as issues pertaining to replacing the K5000R display compelled me to finally register and post.

So, I have ordered this same display, and it seems that it's not exactly "zero modification"... At least that's what the guy who's doing the modification for me is reporting. This was the result when doing a drop-in replacement:



Now, the guy has figured out that there are some differences in initialization and communication between the original display and this blackline one... I don't have more details, but he managed to get rid of the dashed lines by messing with some pins, however there are some overlaps with the graphics happening now (have no picture of that yet). I will ask for more details then post here. In the meantime, if anyone has any ideas what could be the cause of this (I know you don't have the same display, Dan, but you're a wizard anyways so perhaps!), please let me know.


Unfortunately seems that member BulletZ only has 1 post and that was from June this year, and it doesn't seem like he visited this board since then, which is kinda bummer, because if somebody should know, it'd be him I guess, since he got the same display.

I was VERY careful to order exactly the same display he listed (here's the actual listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321794147846?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT)...


Thanks everyone!

[HideawayStudio]

Hi Mario,

A stretched image with gaps is usually due to the FS (Font Selection) being in the wrong mode.

Any other anomaly with the image will require a picture so I can see whats going on.

[BulletZ]

Unfortunately seems that member BulletZ only has 1 post and that was from June this year, and it doesn't seem like he visited this board since then, which is kinda bummer, because if somebody should know, it'd be him I guess, since he got the same display.

Lucky for you I just happened to pass by

Hi Mario,

A stretched image with gaps is usually due to the FS (Font Selection) being in the wrong mode.

Any other anomaly with the image will require a picture so I can see whats going on.

Yep, as Dan said I would bet you didn't connect the FS pin.

[cornutt]

Would any of you chaps happen to know if there is a replacement display that would be compatible with the K5/K5m? I've been doing some web searches, but all I find is articles about replacing the backlight (I keep running into my own article on backlight replacement ).

[HideawayStudio]

Would any of you chaps happen to know if there is a replacement display that would be compatible with the K5/K5m? I've been doing some web searches, but all I find is articles about replacing the backlight (I keep running into my own article on backlight replacement ).

That also appears to be a 240 by 64 one dot per pixel display and its pretty likely it also has a T6963 controller as they were very common in those days. As ever with replacing displays with modern alternatives, half the battle is whether the new display physically fits in the available space and the cable exit and pinout is sufficiently similar.

My plan is to try fitting the same Cool Blue display to the Wavestation A/D which is also T6963 compatible.

Speaking of nice displays I have just fitted 2x16 OLED displays to both my Waldorf Wave I (orange on black) and E-mu EMAX (blue on black) and heck do they look nice! The contrast ratio and clarity is stunning.

I obtained the EMAX retrofit as a ready to go kit here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151801398422

The picture doesn't even vaguely do this display justice - it looks gorgeous!