KAWAI K5000 Cool Blue LCD!

[Evil Dragon]

Lucky for you I just happened to pass by

Lucky me!

Hi Mario,

A stretched image with gaps is usually due to the FS (Font Selection) being in the wrong mode.

Any other anomaly with the image will require a picture so I can see whats going on.

Yep, as Dan said I would bet you didn't connect the FS pin.

Yes, I think that is solved now, but another issue cropped up. Lemme see if I can get some pictures from the guy doing the mod for me... Please stay tuned!

[Evil Dragon]

Got a reply from the guy doing the display change. It was FS all along. I quote: "added 1kOhm resistor to pin 19 (FS) and +5V".

Happy days!

[ChrisTX]

Hi Folks!
I would like to thank Hideawaystudio for his nice tutorial. The display of my K5000r is barely readable so I bought this display: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331752461565. It seems to be a new version of the LCM24064 called LCM24064-11. I think I know what I have to do but I thought a little confirmation could not hurt . On this new version there are 3 solderpads called JFS. One trace goes to FS (pin 19), another to VDD (pin 3) and the third looks like a GND. So I will have to follow the instructions made by Hideawaystudio and solder a 1k resistor on JFS between FS and VDD, right?

A nice thing about the new version: the crystal don't has to be removed to lower the profile.
Sorry for the poor quality pic.

[HideawayStudio]

Hi Folks!
I would like to thank Hideawaystudio for his nice tutorial. The display of my K5000r is barely readable so I bought this display: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331752461565. It seems to be a new version of the LCM24064 called LCM24064-11. I think I know what I have to do but I thought a little confirmation could not hurt . On this new version there are 3 solderpads called JFS. One trace goes to FS (pin 19), another to VDD (pin 3) and the third looks like a GND. So I will have to follow the instructions made by Hideawaystudio and solder a 1k resistor on JFS between FS and VDD, right?

A nice thing about the new version: the crystal don't has to be removed to lower the profile.
Sorry for the poor quality pic.

Hi Chris... yes it looks like that should be ok... solder a 1K resistor between FS and VDD - either directly on the LCD interface header pins or on the JFS configuration pads.

[ChrisTX]

Hi Chris... yes it looks like that should be ok... solder a 1K resistor between FS and VDD - either directly on the LCD interface header pins or on the JFS configuration pads.

Thanks, then I will just have to order some 1k resistors if I can't find one in my mess. I expected it to be identical to yours but as I won't have to bother about the crystal being to tall I am definitely not annoyed.

[ChrisTX]

Hi, yesterday I finally fitted the new display. It was an easy task to do but it looks like I bought the wrong display. I cannot adjust contrast correctly. Contrast set to 0 ist the best setting but as you can see in the picture it is still way off. With contrast set to 20 you can't see anything. Furthermore, the 1k resistor does not seem to have any effect. I soldered it directly to the pins of the interface as this was the easiest way. Any suggestions? I am lost .
Btw. on my K5000r there is no transistor on Q2, so I did nothing on the psu just connected 5v and gnd for the backlight.

[BennJoltes]

Hi..actually I too replaced my display but not looking as great as yours there. I noticed your unit uses separate button pcbs around the display. EDIT: My KB version has one u-shaped pcb that recently stopped working. Turned out to be a pin connector not seated properly.

[HideawayStudio]

Just installed the same Cool Blue display in my Wavestation A/D...

It works beautifully but is an absolute pig to retrofit because the new display is marginally deeper than the original E/L backlit unit.

It does have the big avantage that it erradicates that horrible invertor noise.

So doable but I'm afraid definitely not one for anyone other than the very brave as things need to be moved, insulated and alternative mountings devised...

But it looks SO much nicer and a is a 100 times easier to read at a glance....

[ChrisTX]

I will put a resistor on pin4 V0 to look if this changes anything. but for this I will have to cut the wire on the ribbon cable. A pita.. maybe first try a lower resistor between FS and VDD if this switches to correct mode.

Edit: no, it wont set the right font mode whatever I try. No need to waste some more time with this display - 40$ lost. I will try a display that worked for some other guy: http://www.ebay.ch/itm/301017373646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&clk_rvr_id=1048628300950&rmvSB=true. If this won't work either I will give up.

[HideawayStudio]

I will put a resistor on pin4 V0 to look if this changes anything. but for this I will have to cut the wire on the ribbon cable. A pita.. maybe first try a lower resistor between FS and VDD if this switches to correct mode.

Edit: no, it wont set the right font mode whatever I try. No need to waste some more time with this display - 40$ lost. I will try a display that worked for some other guy: http://www.ebay.ch/itm/301017373646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&clk_rvr_id=1048628300950&rmvSB=true. If this won't work either I will give up.

My guess is that you are much closer to making this work than you think...

The display clearly does support Font Select but its clear you're going to need to configure something on the display itself and not via the header.

[ChrisTX]

My guess is that you are much closer to making this work than you think...

The display clearly does support Font Select but its clear you're going to need to configure something on the display itself and not via the header.

Yea, you are probably right. But I have no idea where to start as there is no documentation for this particular display apart from the pin header. When I lower the resistor between FS and VDD it makes no difference, with 0 ohm it won't startup at all. Could it be that it needs a diode? Well I already ordered the other display. There would still remain the issue that you cannot set the contrast correctly. I could try to put a pot on V0 and VEE and forget about the software contrast adjust but this wouldn't be a nice solution either. I will report if the other display will work as expected (I can't imagine why it shouldn't).

[tomcc]

My guess is that you are much closer to making this work than you think...

The display clearly does support Font Select but its clear you're going to need to configure something on the display itself and not via the header.

Yea, you are probably right. But I have no idea where to start as there is no documentation for this particular display apart from the pin header. When I lower the resistor between FS and VDD it makes no difference, with 0 ohm it won't startup at all. Could it be that it needs a diode? Well I already ordered the other display. There would still remain the issue that you cannot set the contrast correctly. I could try to put a pot on V0 and VEE and forget about the software contrast adjust but this wouldn't be a nice solution either. I will report if the other display will work as expected (I can't imagine why it shouldn't).

My K5000W display seems to be suffering from the EL issue of old age and is not very bright. I am looking at the same display
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301017373646 ... EBIDX%3AIT.
Was hoping yours arrives and when installed you can detail what you had to do to get it working. I don't want to get the wrong one and have issues that leave me worse off.
Thanks to the many who have taken the time to tell of their experiences getting their displays to work.
Cheers Tom

[Mesmerised]

I have finally upgraded the Display on my WAVESTATION Keyboard.
Following this page http://wp.visuanetics.nl/korg-wavestati ... y-upgrade/ I installed a White on Black LCD display. It looks gorgeous!
Jeroen mentions a fix for the contrast setting (changing two resistors on the analog board) and it works very well.

I have found that to disable the annoying high-voltage converter you only have to cut a wire bridge next to the converter. It seems almost to be there for that purpose, so you don't have to desolder the thing. I used the original cable to feed the LED backlight with 100Ohms to 5V. For that I have moved the cable on the plug one step to the not connected part of the 3 pin connector and only had to jumper via the 100R to a nearby 5V. Et voila: beautiful black screen and no whine!
I would also recommend to use the opportunity to change the battery. Mine was completely flat.

[ChrisTX]

yea, this one worked. It is slightly bigger than the one that did not work, and there is the big crystal that I probably will have to move to be able to put the frontpanel in place, but this are minor (mechanic) issues. I exactly followed Hideaway's instructions on the first post. If someone requests it I could take some pictures, but they will look exactly as Hideaways shots, so I think it does not make a lot of sense...

Thanks Hideaway, instructions are perfect if you buy the right display. Ah, maybe one thing: I have to set the contrast to 0 and it is still very slightly off (maybe -1 would be 100%). No problem it looks great, it just would have been even more convenient if the optimal setting would have been, let's say value 10.

[ChrisTX]

I just wanted to say that this display works really well: http://www.ebay.ch/itm/301017373646. Get one while they are still available. I didn't had to remove the crystal. It just fits nicely with the crystal leaving at its place.
Instead of pressing the center tapped screw hole I grinded a tiny bump into the display pcb. Maybe pressing the hole is safer not to damage the pcb...

My old smartphone doesn't make nice pictures, but I would like to share them anyway. You can see the 1k resistor to set the right display mode. On another one you see the bump in the display pcb.