EX-8000 parts

[abruzzi]

I recently picked up a local craigslist Korg EX-8000. Right now the main thing bugging me is a number of the buttons are intermittent. I tried deoxit on one of them and it only made it worse. Unfortunately after searching the web, I haven't been able to find the correct switch. It's not the same switch as the DW8000 unfortunately which seems to be available from a number of sources. I don't like the idea of being only able to program this from a computer. Has anyone found a replacement switch on mouser or digikey? Fortunately the switches with LED in them (program, parameter, etc.) are all fine at the moment as I expect those may be even harder to match.

EDIT:

Here is a quick cellphone pic of the buttons. The number 5 button (SW10) is the most unresponsive, and it has its cover removed in this photo:

[urgetoplay]

Didn't realize they weren't the same switch as the DW; Please post if you find a solution. I had rack ears made for this a few years back as mine didn't come with any and I couldn't source a set. Good luck !

[abruzzi]

Well I managed to dig up an EX-8000 service manual. The part number for the non-lit buttons is KEC-10010. This part number gets basically zero hits on the Internet. The only meaningful hit I get when I google that part number with quotes is for the service manual for a Korg SDD-2000. Looking at pics for the SDD-2000 it has that same sort of buttons. But nothing else. I'm not even sure who made it. It's looks like if I can't repair the buttons, I'll have to find non standard buttons (unless Korg support still has some for repair, but 30 years on, that seems unlikely.)

[Aaron2]

Have you tried syntaur.com? They seem to have all kinds of hard-to-find vintage parts. I've used them extensively over the years.

[madtheory]

Some suggestions:

Switches tend to be reliable, so you need to be sure that it is the actual problem, and not a symptom.

Are you 100% certain it is the actual switch, and not a dry joint, a broken PCB trace or the logic circuit further down the line? The only way to be 100% is to desolder one of the faulty switches and test it for continuity.

Next, have you tried dismantling a switch to determine the fault? Maybe it's repairable.

Next, try a google image search for "pcb mount square push to make switch" it would be a good place to start to find something similar. You might end up having to glue the top of an old switch onto a new one.

[abruzzi]

I'm sure its the switch. Using a small jumper wire, if I touch the two electrodes on the "5" switch, it enters the number "5" without a problem. I then was able to disassemble the switch. It is a rubber dome with a contact at the top of the dome and a pair of contacts at the base. The dome is almost completely ripped, so I'm assuming that is the problem. Since the switch is no longer available, I think my best bet is finding a similar sized dome out of another switch.

[FX23]

i have the same problem with my ex8000, i look forward to the solution

[abruzzi]

i have the same problem with my ex8000, i look forward to the solution

I had a recommendation to put a tiny switch inside the switch. I'm going to order a few from digikey and see if any fit and could be connected up to the leads without too much problem.

[crafter57]

Had the same issue with my EX-800, the switches are actually shorted because they have metal contacts inside. If you desolder the switch and look on the backside under microscope or magnifying glass, you will see the actual manufacturer name and you can search it that way. That's what I did and was able to find replacements

[SynthOSphere]

Had the same issue with my EX-800, the switches are actually shorted because they have metal contacts inside. If you desolder the switch and look on the backside under microscope or magnifying glass, you will see the actual manufacturer name and you can search it that way. That's what I did and was able to find replacements

Crafter57: Could you please share the source of your parts for replacing the EX-800 switches please? Many thanks!

[hageir]

I've got a CR-8000 and those switches are unobtainium apparently, so we had to take them apart and actually fix them... So you might have to do that if you can't find replacements, it is possible to fix broken switches

[crafter57]

SynthOSphere: My EX-800 is a different beast. After meticulously following a "pushbutton repair guide" from another site, I totally broke the pastic guides when I took it apart to clean it inside and could not re-assemble the pushbutton. You can see the rusty metal disc that sits below the pushbutton activator. I then de-soldered the button and on the backside in a very tiny print is the manufacturer's name. You probable have to do the same, take it off and look under with a magnifying glass or microscope, once you have that, you can search the manufacturer's legacy products and find their part number most likely Korean / Japanese part. I was able to replacements that way. Here's my switch..




PS. I suggest you don't touch it until you can find a replacement or if you don't know how to disassemble the button as you may break it like I did.

[Memphis]

You can buy these switches at Mauser Electronics. They are called tactile switches. Use solder wick to remove the old ones and then just solder in the new ones--very easy if you know basic soldering. Mauser is great. You just need to measure the height diameter and button size--They have everything. I rebuilt my ex-8000. They have a common problem with the wearing out of these switches. Keep these units alive. They will be worth alot one day. They sound great too.

[madtheory]

A direct link to the part on the Mouser catalogue would be more helpful.

[Rayek]

After having a lot of problems with my DW-8000, I switched to the EX. Sad to hear these are riddled with similar problems, but at the very least they don't take up a huge amount of space with a clacky keyboard.

Switch repair is very annoying, if you find the actual part number, I'd be happy to know as well.