Cheers
Phil (Headless)

Holy c**p! How much space is there around the rear ~6mm of the card? If I made my card full length, its rear end would still be ever so slightly thicker than the original due to the switches. Wondering if that could still fit.vicd wrote:Here's an M256E in a Roland JD800.
I wholeheartedly second thatdojoe wrote: Holy c**p!
6.5mm high is plenty to accomodate for the switches. Does the height diminish when going deeper? If so, how far can one go in with a, say, 4mm card?vicd wrote:
- The card slit itself is 56.5mm wide x 6.5mm high.
Yes, it does, yet a 4mm hex wrench perfectly fits all the way down to the bottom of the finger recess (20mm) in any place. Then the actual slit begins, which is like 3mm (the original card itself is ~2.4mm thick).dojoe wrote: 6.5mm high is plenty to accomodate for the switches. Does the height diminish when going deeper? If so, how far can one go in with a, say, 4mm card?
That's good news indeed!vicd wrote: Yes, it does, yet a 4mm hex wrench perfectly fits all the way down to the bottom of the finger recess (20mm) in any place. Then the actual slit begins, which is like 3mm (the original card itself is ~2.4mm thick).
Given your very detailed information (thanks!) as well as baz99's info (there's no way at all a shorter card will work in his JV without dremeling away parts of the slot), it's clear that the next version of the card will have to be original length. So no switches will be hidden from you eithervicd wrote: Well probably the protection switch may stay "hidden", but not the bank ones.
...speaking of the benefits of OCD combined with a career in software testing...dojoe wrote: Given your very detailed information (thanks!)
Thanks, that looks just like I suspected -- the same slot type as in baz99's JV-1080.Headless68 wrote:Just in case - here is a shot of a VG-8 with a card actually inserted ...