Juno-106 problem

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Jacob Hunt
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Juno-106 problem

Post by Jacob Hunt » Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:06 pm

My Juno is having a problem. I just had the noise slider replaced and now, it doesn't work properly. Upon powering up, the 2nd dash on the manual mode screen drops down to the lower section of the display. Does anybody have even an idea what might be happening here? Most of the other buttons are not responsive either.

Could it be a bad solder joint? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by rhino » Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:54 pm

Welcome to the board !
First guess is that the tech forgot a cable plug, mis-pinned one or exchanged two (or more). I'd take it back and give him/her another chance. If any s**t, take it to another tech and dump the first one.
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by Jacob Hunt » Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:10 pm

Thanks for your reply!
I hope that's all it is.. But I've looked at it since and I think it looks like a very sloppy job. Maybe some burned spots on the PCB and not so hot looking soldering. There's not many techs around here though :(
The cables would be numbered right? I'll look into this (I'm slightly competent with electronics :D ).. I would be pretty annoyed if the tech messed up my Juno

And I think I might have to pay the tech a visit like you said

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by fh991586 » Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:31 am

If you touch it inside, your tech will most likely refuse any responsability to the present state of the synth. Just bring it back while you still have the chance to confront him with the job he just did. If that doesn't work, then try it on your own or bring it elsewhere...
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by Bitexion » Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:39 am

Yeah don't poke around yourself, then the tech can actually blame you and want nothing to do with it.

However, he COULD be really nice guy and work together with you.

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by Don T » Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:41 am

Bitexion wrote:Yeah don't poke around yourself, then the tech can actually blame you and want nothing to do with it.

However, he COULD be really nice guy and work together with you.
Not all techs act that way, trust me.
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by samuraipizzacat29 » Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:04 am

Don T wrote:
Bitexion wrote:Yeah don't poke around yourself, then the tech can actually blame you and want nothing to do with it.

However, he COULD be really nice guy and work together with you.
Not all techs act that way, trust me.
^trust him, I would. :)

the solder "burn spots" are likely from the desoldering wick. should clean up with a bit of rubbing alcohol. it's really hard to "burn" things with a soldering iron unless something looks melted too. if that's the case, I'd raise all sorts of havoc if this guy thought it responsible to open your synth's case and do the repairs.

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by cornutt » Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:23 am

The display you're seeing indicates that the 106 is booting up in test mode. That means it's sensing that the KEY TRANSPOSE button is being held down. First, check to make sure that button isn't stuck. If that's not the case, then the tech may have done some damage to the board that has resulted in that button being shorted.
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by Jacob Hunt » Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:45 am

cornutt wrote:The display you're seeing indicates that the 106 is booting up in test mode. That means it's sensing that the KEY TRANSPOSE button is being held down. First, check to make sure that button isn't stuck. If that's not the case, then the tech may have done some damage to the board that has resulted in that button being shorted.
It's going into test mode, but it's a severely warped form of test mode, so unfortunately there's even more to it than that. Only some notes will cause the voice number indicator to change, and it's the same note on every octave. But, it's not going sequentially either. It was starting at 6, and alternating between that and 5.

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by Jacob Hunt » Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:58 am

samuraipizzacat29 wrote:
Don T wrote:
Bitexion wrote:Yeah don't poke around yourself, then the tech can actually blame you and want nothing to do with it.

However, he COULD be really nice guy and work together with you.
Not all techs act that way, trust me.
^trust him, I would. :)

the solder "burn spots" are likely from the desoldering wick. should clean up with a bit of rubbing alcohol. it's really hard to "burn" things with a soldering iron unless something looks melted too. if that's the case, I'd raise all sorts of havoc if this guy thought it responsible to open your synth's case and do the repairs.
There's some pretty rough looking stuff in there, but I'll see if the alchohol wont clean it up some.

And yes, I know how some techs can be. A tech in Atlanta wouldn't even touch my six-Trak I had before. But it's not looking like this tech is going to get much done to redeem himself, so I'm on my own for now it looks like.

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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by synthparts » Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:39 am

I would avoid any tech that doesn't have a temperature controlled desolder station. At least a Hakko 808 or similar.
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by cornutt » Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:21 am

Hmm. Since the guy did work on the panel board, the thing I'd suspect is that he messed up that board, either by creating a solder bridge that is shorting something, or by messing up the ribbon cables. However, you mentioned that the keyboard is acting up also. There is logic on the CPU board that handles the scanning for both the keyboard and the panel buttons and switches. For the KEY TRANSPOSE buttons, IC9 is the column drive, and IC12 receives the row signal.

Check the MIDI CH button and the DCO 16' button to see if they are working. If the MIDI CH button isn't working, that indicates a problem with the column drive. If the 16' button isn't working, that indicates a problem with the row receiver. Keep in mind that in both cases it may be the cables or connectors between the panel board and the CPU board causing the problem.
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Re: Juno-106 problem

Post by neanalog » Thu May 30, 2013 3:46 pm

These machines are very finicky and old. I'm a tech and an electrical engineer, and if a customer has a problem with something when they get it home, I have them bring it back and I find what's wrong. If it was something that I missed, I fix it for free. If it was due to something that they declined to have done because they wanted to save money, I can't do it for free and I tell them this. Most of us techs end up putting more time in to these machines than people are willing to actually pay us for. I find that most techs who are competent and know what they are doing are very reasonable people when it comes to having to revisit work done. Flying off the handle and trying to blame a tech for something when you don't even have a good understanding of electronics is likely to cause friction, and is just plain unfair. Unless you have a specific reason to blame the tech, I wouldn't automatically blame them. I have seen things break in the most amazing ways, especially after new components are added. Sometimes just putting in one new chip is enough to make the old ones that are on their knees already, just give up the ghost. You can't blame your tech for something like that. There are lots of folks who try this because they are afraid if they don't throw a fit, then they might not get the work for free. If I have a customer that does this, it's usually the last time I'll work with them. Just try to remember that these synths are very old and delicate. Just the car ride home can be enough to make a connection intermittent that wasn't intermittent when it was on the bench. I encourage civility when something like this happens. Of course there are plenty of techs who think they can fix a synth when they really only dabble in synths. I wouldn't ever take a synth so somebody who doesn't do synth repair for a living. That's my 2 cents from an insider's point of view.
PS-Any synth tech that uses desolder wick rather than a Hakko 808 or equivalent is not worth taking your synth to.
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