Kawai Q-80 (Q80) Archive & Repository

[Walter Ego]

Thanks for more great info. Can the bootloader USB also be programmed with the HxC firmware via Mac? I can track down a PC but I am typically a Mac user.

[Rasputin]

Thanks for more great info. Can the bootloader USB also be programmed with the HxC firmware via Mac? I can track down a PC but I am typically a Mac user.

The flash tool is proprietary and only exists for Windows, so far as I know.

[salwa]

Does anyone replaced LCD in Q-80EX? Mine has rather burned out display.

[Rasputin]

Does anyone replaced LCD in Q-80EX? Mine has rather burned out display.

I haven't specifically done this, but I suspect no one else has, so I'm going to take a blind stab at it anyway. If you can take some pictures and measurements of the display board in your Q-80EX then we might be able to confirm some things and narrow down the choices.

Keep in mind that this is just guesswork at this point!

Judging from the Q80 model, I would suspect a workable replacement to be a 16x2 LED LCD at 5V with a HD44780 controller with 14 pins down one side and two separate pins for the backlight. Something like this, maybe:

(link removed because it's irrelevant as a reference; see later in the thread)

Of course you'd have to solder a display connector to the header, so it wouldn't be a drop-in replacement. The pinout of the Q80 is a bit odd, and I suspect the Q-80EX is as well, but I do not have one to confirm. Again, pictures and measurements would help.

Kawai Q-80 display pinout:

1 - PD7
2 - PD6
3 - PD5
4 - PD4
5 - PD3
6 - PD2
7 - PD1
8 - PD0
9 - LE (enable)
10 - LWR (write/read)
11 - A0 (address pin = RS, probably)
12 - VEE (contrast)
13 - VCC (+5VDC)
14 - GND (ground)

LA \ both of the backlight pins
LK / are on a separate connector --- LA is anode, LK is cathode

Modern LCD LED display:

1 - VDD (to old pin 13)
2 - GND (to old pin 14)
3 - V0 (to old pin 12)
4 - RS (to old pin 11)
5 - R/W (to old pin 10)
6 - EN (to old pin 9)
7 - D0 (to old pin 8)
8 - D1 (to old pin 7)
9 - D2 (to old pin 6)
10 - D3 (to old pin 5)
11 - D4 (to old pin 4)
12 - D5 (to old pin 3)
13 - D6 (to old pin 2)
14 - D7 (to old pin 1)

Backlight Anode (or pin 15 on displays with pins across the top) - LA (connect to old LA / +5VDC)
Backlight Cathode (or pin 16 on displays with pins across the top) - LK (connect to old LK / ground)

As you can see, it's almost a 180 degree flip EXCEPT the +5V and ground pins have to be twisted, and the old backlight connector is attached separately.

[DX21]

I have a TL866, I could dump the rom if you ship the chips to me, I'm in canada so the shipping might be mad large though.

[salwa]

Does anyone replaced LCD in Q-80EX? Mine has rather burned out display.

I haven't specifically done this, but I suspect no one else has, so I'm going to take a blind stab at it anyway. If you can take some pictures and measurements of the display board in your Q-80EX then we might be able to confirm some things and narrow down the choices.

Keep in mind that this is just guesswork at this point!

Judging from the Q80 model, I would suspect a workable replacement to be a 16x2 LED LCD at 5V with a HD44780 controller with 14 pins down one side and two separate pins for the backlight. Something like this, maybe:



Of course you'd have to solder a display connector to the header, so it wouldn't be a drop-in replacement. The pinout of the Q80 is a bit odd, and I suspect the Q-80EX is as well, but I do not have one to confirm. Again, pictures and measurements would help.

Kawai Q-80 display pinout:

1 - PD7
2 - PD6
3 - PD5
4 - PD4
5 - PD3
6 - PD2
7 - PD1
8 - PD0
9 - LE (enable)
10 - LWR (write/read)
11 - A0 (address pin = RS, probably)
12 - VEE (contrast)
13 - VCC (+5VDC)
14 - GND (ground)

LA \ both of the backlight pins
LK / are on a separate connector --- LA is anode, LK is cathode

Modern LCD LED display:

1 - VDD (to old pin 13)
2 - GND (to old pin 14)
3 - V0 (to old pin 12)
4 - RS (to old pin 11)
5 - R/W (to old pin 10)
6 - EN (to old pin 9)
7 - D0 (to old pin 8)
8 - D1 (to old pin 7)
9 - D2 (to old pin 6)
10 - D3 (to old pin 5)
11 - D4 (to old pin 4)
12 - D5 (to old pin 3)
13 - D6 (to old pin 2)
14 - D7 (to old pin 1)

Backlight Anode (or pin 15 on displays with pins across the top) - LA (connect to old LA / +5VDC)
Backlight Cathode (or pin 16 on displays with pins across the top) - LK (connect to old LK / ground)

As you can see, it's almost a 180 degree flip EXCEPT the +5V and ground pins have to be twisted, and the old backlight connector is attached separately.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated. I will try to open it and make photos tommorow.
EDIT: I'm afraid I won't be any help. I dismantled my Q-80EX today, but the display PCB is hold by four screws and six little bended pieces of metal. Unfortunately, the top middle is soldered to the green wire and could not be bend:

I'm not that good in soldering to try to remove the wire, as I'm afraid to mess something seriously up (and I need sequencer to be in working condition - I have live show coming up). So I guess I have to find a technician to do it, which may take some time, I'm afraid. I'm terribly sorry for the fuss I made.

[Rasputin]

I dismantled my Q-80EX today, but the display PCB is hold by four screws and six little bended pieces of metal. Unfortunately, the top middle is soldered to the green wire and could not be bend.

I'm not that good in soldering to try to remove the wire, as I'm afraid to mess something seriously up (and I need sequencer to be in working condition - I have live show coming up). So I guess I have to find a technician to do it, which may take some time, I'm afraid. I'm terribly sorry for the fuss I made.

Only those 4 screws come out, if you need to measure or access the screen to clean it, etc. The wires can even stay connected.

You wouldn't actually replace just the LCD itself, by the way. You'd be replacing the entire screen and that green controller board at the same time. So those metal tabs aren't ever undone, you'd just unsolder the wires across the bottom, the two backlight wires, and that green wire from the tab. Then the new board/display would go in and you'd reconnect those wires.

Measurements of the board would still be good, but the picture did answer a couple questions. Looks like this display would be closer and the pins are ordered differently and are in a row across the bottom:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-Wide-Angle- ... 0009.m1982

That layout makes it way more straight-forward to flip the connectors.

[salwa]

I dismantled my Q-80EX today, but the display PCB is hold by four screws and six little bended pieces of metal. Unfortunately, the top middle is soldered to the green wire and could not be bend.

I'm not that good in soldering to try to remove the wire, as I'm afraid to mess something seriously up (and I need sequencer to be in working condition - I have live show coming up). So I guess I have to find a technician to do it, which may take some time, I'm afraid. I'm terribly sorry for the fuss I made.

Only those 4 screws come out, if you need to measure or access the screen to clean it, etc. The wires can even stay connected.

You wouldn't actually replace just the LCD itself, by the way. You'd be replacing the entire screen and that green controller board at the same time. So those metal tabs aren't ever undone, you'd just unsolder the wires across the bottom, the two backlight wires, and that green wire from the tab. Then the new board/display would go in and you'd reconnect those wires.

Measurements of the board would still be good, but the picture did answer a couple questions. Looks like this display would be closer and the pins are ordered differently and are in a row across the bottom:



That layout makes it way more straight-forward to flip the connectors.

I'm sorry, I did took measurements, just stupidly forgot to write them - the board is 45 milimeters by 83 milimeters, but I'll dismantle it tommorow again and measure mounting holes.

[salwa]

Little update - mounting holes on display PCB are 71 x 36 mm.

[Rasputin]

Little update - mounting holes on display PCB are 71 x 36 mm.

Now follow that link in my last post in this thread. Toward the bottom are the Specifications. Compare to the size measured of your display.

Hint
Outline Dimension - 84.0(Width) x 44.0(Height) x 13.3(Thickness)
Visual Area - 60.80 x 16.90mm

There's also a link to the datasheet on that page which shows the mounting hole layouts and dimensions of the board in graphic format.

Keep in mind that manufacturing tolerances may be off by a little bit, so it doesn't necessarily have to be spot/bang/dead on (pick your idiom).

[salwa]

Little update - mounting holes on display PCB are 71 x 36 mm.

Now follow that link in my last post in this thread. Toward the bottom are the Specifications. Compare to the size measured of your display.

Hint
Outline Dimension - 84.0(Width) x 44.0(Height) x 13.3(Thickness)
Visual Area - 60.80 x 16.90mm

There's also a link to the datasheet on that page which shows the mounting hole layouts and dimensions of the board in graphic format.

Keep in mind that manufacturing tolerances may be off by a little bit, so it doesn't necessarily have to be spot/bang/dead on (pick your idiom).

Yes, I'm aware of specifications in that auction. I posted those measurements for, let's say, future generations (this is Archive & Repository thread after all) - maybe they will help someone

[Rasputin]

Yes, I'm aware of specifications in that auction. I posted those measurements for, let's say, future generations (this is Archive & Repository thread after all) - maybe they will help someone

Ha. Well, actually, I was curious if that display was an adequate replacement. Don't leave us hangin' Did it look like it was physically the same as yours? If so, I'm pretty sure it'll work with that somewhat wonky soldering.

[salwa]

So, it's time to update. I've bought a new LCD (datasheet is here) and got to work. Originally I was planning to do as little soldering as possible (due to my shaking hands; also I'm lazy), especially desoldering cables from original LCD. I've decided to buy 14 pin female connector and solder it to the new screen.

It turned out, however, that it's extremally hard to buy that connector here (I've opted not to buy 1000 pcs from AliExpress). As I wanted to be very careful, I've decided, that I want to see, if it works at all. So I've soldered wires to new screen and used makeshift connector (with use of ducktape - I'm as far of proffesional technician as one can be).

As you can see, it's not for the faint heart (I've also had to hold power connectors by hand, because I've added to much solder and the couldn't be mounted - I hope no technician reads this). To my amazement - it worked.
Next step was to remove original LCD. It was harder than i thought - as four screws was not enough for Kawai engeneers, it was also glued to the chasis.

After that and quick prayer I desoldered wires and soldered them to the new screen. To my growing astonishment it worked again. But there was one problem left - the dimensions of new screen. It was much smaller, so the only solution I've found was to chip off two corners and hope it would somehow fit. It did.

So now I have nice blue screen and everything is working. I want to thank Rasputin for his invaluable help and patience.

[Rasputin]

Wow! Thumbs up, man! Glad you saw it through and that my guesswork happened to lead to a bulls-eye

I'm sure some research would yield a perfect fit, but we'll consider it a win.

[salwa]

Wow! Thumbs up, man! Glad you saw it through and that my guesswork happened to lead to a bulls-eye

I'm sure some research would yield a perfect fit, but we'll consider it a win.

Yes, you're probably right, but I was a bit overwhelmed by variety of models. Well, thanks again. Next goal for me - to find replacement for encoder