I'm not too experienced at programming the TS10. Maybe this could help if you don't have it already:

http://www.synthzone.com/midi/ensoniq/t ... manual.pdf

To clean the contact, you need to take off the grey rubber strip. Be cautious to not break it. When done, clean the black dot inside of it. This is a carbon tip. Dirt sticks to it. You might need to recarbonate it if it seems worn out. To do so, for light touch-up, use a HB pencil and bub it to the ...

Korg used NiCad 3.6V 150mAh battery. It's recommend to replace them with lithium equivalence.

Suggestion: use CR2032 button type battery + plastic holder to avoid eventual mess.

There's a good site about it: http://www.hoohahrecords.com/resfreq/mo ... ttery.html

Hope that helps

I think the Rogue got tiny conductive metal inserts in the PCB holes for the electrolytic capacitors (especially in the PSU). Those are barely noticeable but tend to give up after a while - especially when desoldering, even more with a bit too high temperature [over 70°-75°C]. Resulting in bad conta...

I'm busy over my head but I'll try to look at my documents and come back to you on your issues. About the brown/orange stuff: nothing to really worry about though a good cleaning with something like Electro-Wash tm (PCB degreaser/cleaner) wouldn't hurt. Those stains are usually flux surplus that dri...

Warning: I'm not using a Mac! First, Korg UK is helpful with documentations + factory patches: http://www.korguksupport.co.uk/page.cfm?pageid=392#Owners%20Manuals And you'll need a Librarian. There are some free ones on the Net. I cannot recommend one for the Mac since I'm on PC. But there should ha...

Altitude is right.

And if you've got a multimeter (preferably with a capacimeter), have a check at the electrolytic capacitors, especially those around the headphone/jacks. I wouldn't be surpised that those are slowly taking the exit. That is very common with a synth that age.

Hope that helps

That's a lot of money! Thanks for letting us know. I'm shipping worldwide but never shipped there yet. I'll be warned.

Take off the screws from the top panel flip. That will allow you to peek inside. If you need to disassemble more, remove the screws underneath the synth. Then remove the keybed and voila! Note, it you need to remove the mainboard, you'll have to unscrew the screws on the back ot the synth and losen ...

I might not be insanely helpful but I'll give it a try anyway. I'm no expert with MIDIQuest. What we're using in the repairshop is MIDI-OX (http://www.midiox.com) and a M-Audio Uno USB Midi Interface. Work great for our needs and as simple as it gets. For the ESQ-1 dump procedure: http://itec.uka.de...

From the top of my head, CR2032 3V, 0.3 mA, 220mAh, lithium button type.

Those are very common and can be bought for cheap.

Awesome! Glad it wasn't anything too serious.

If the synth has not been used in a while, the caps are already discharged. I personally wouldn't worry. Escpecially when they have leaked. No dialectric = no charge. BUT security first. Avoid the screwdriver trick. Use a 100k resistor and short the cap. If you want more security and a visual aid, h...

I recommend member minime123. He's a specialist in vintage synth restauration.

Hi I've worked on the Fizmo: not an obvious synth to repair since there no service manual nor schematics and that Ensoniq ain't no more and E-Mu/Creative Labs don't even remember about it. For your maintenance, Muzik Elektronix can do it. Myself, I'm located in Canada and I've got 2 professional tec...