Building your own keyboard carrying case?

Post by **bassdude** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:56 pm

First, I appologize if this topic has already been covered. I searched and found nothing.

To be clear, Im looking for info and thoughts on building a hard case for my synth (not the actual housing of the boards guts themselves). I have an Alesis Ion which Id like to protect. I have access to quite a bit of woodoworking tools, some experience, and plenty of wood, hardware, screws etc....

Id like to build something as light and compact as possible. I know that this can sacrifice strength and durability, but this case will not be used for heavy touring, airplane flight, or anything that rough. Has anyone done this before? What should I keep in mind? Thanks!

garranimal · Post by **garranimal** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:13 pm

I've never built my own case but I took a tour of Kangaroo in Dallas and learned quite a bit just in talking to their sales guys (great cases and case re-furbishing btw for anyone in Dallas). I've had experience stripping tolex and rebuild a Rhodes 73 case. I'm re-facing kitchen cabinets right now and having a blast w/ any kind of woodworking project that may be going on. I say go for it and don't hesitate to build your own case!

So it doesn't have to be flight case quality, but the devil is still in the details and all the decisions to be made: sufficient plywood thickness, edge joinery (nails vs screws vs just wood glue), joint type (there are many), corner treatments (this is the weakest link in building a strong case), outside veneer selection (formica, tolex, etc), foam type/density selection (there are many of varying costs), sourcing all kinds of hardware like the corners-edge bands-hinges- latches-locks?-sealing lid/case (submerge in water puddle/rain?)-handle-casters (many sizes). That is - if you want all that. When it's all said and done it may cost as much in materials as, say, injection-molded plastic SKB or Gator case.

BTW Elmers wood glue IS DEFINITELY stronger than wood itself as I have recently done an edge fracture test in my garage (edge glued two chunks of Maple (a hard wood mind you) together and after curing slammed it w/ a hammer - which broke in the wood grain and not the glue joint).

If it were me and assuming an ion synth or similar is going in, I would make a case from:
- 1/2" maximum thickness ply finish grade. You might get away with 1/4" for the ion depending upon plywood quality, some warp easier than others.
- Finish: stained exterior black w/ some skulls on it or something, seal w/ two coats of rub-on polyeurethane.
- half-lap edge joinery and Elmers to make a bottom and top
- two piano hinges, screw fastening
- medium-density foam will cost you plenty, just be happy to find some at JoAnn Fabric Craft store (if you're in the US/North America). It's better to use a higher-density foam block in the area that comes down w/ the lid to protect the keys.
- chrome corner protectors, screw fastening. Look for the ones like on Rhodes pianos, some hardware stores have these.
- non-recessed latches, steel
- spring-loaded swiveling handle, non-recessed

A case that size wouldn't need casters imho.

Not to mention all the tools necessary:
- a good table saw
- router for joint construction/half-lap or what have you,
- circular saw and some kind of edge clamp system for cutting plywood off the 4x8 sheet.

You get bonus points if you make a compartment for power adapter, sustain pedal, etc. Use caution and be safe!

th0mas · Post by **th0mas** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:28 pm

your biggest enemy is going to be weight. The materials a hobbiest can work with are heavier than the molded plastic cases made by gator et al.

calaverasgrande · Post by **calaverasgrande** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:41 pm

I've made my own rack cases and a few pedal boards before. I usually go with a very light plywood. 1/4" or 3/8" tops. I then glue and screw together every joint. Wich is a trick because sometimes the wood screws will push pieces apart enough to break the glue.
I never really learned woodworking, I just kind of taught myself by making boxes that were way overbuilt and heavy. Then using smaller bits next time!
I think it is a good idea to have a palm sander or belt sander handy for when you cut a piece not quite right and cutting it again with the saw would make it a smidge too short.
I use gorilla snot wood glue. It sets very fast, is tough as h**l and quite messy.
Also if you source parts from Home Depot be careful to check wood for straightness! They have some crazy crappy wood in there.
Sometimes a cheap method is to take an existing case and modify it with wood and foam etc to fit.

Jabberwalky · Post by **Jabberwalky** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:19 pm

I built a case for my Yamaha Cs5 a few years ago. I used 1/4'' plywood, which seemed plenty strong enough. I ended up lining the inside with foam and tacking purple velvet over that

. The biggest problem I had was attaching the hinges and handle. The screws that came with those parts were too long and went through the other side of the wood. It felt like screws less that a 1/4'' weren't going to be strong enough though. I have minimal woodworking skills, but managed to make it work.

garranimal · Post by **garranimal** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:52 pm

Jabberwalky wrote:I built a case for my Yamaha Cs5 a few years ago. I used 1/4'' plywood, which seemed plenty strong enough. I ended up lining the inside with foam and tacking purple velvet over that . The biggest problem I had was attaching the hinges and handle. The screws that came with those parts were too long and went through the other side of the wood. It felt like screws less that a 1/4'' weren't going to be strong enough though. I have minimal woodworking skills, but managed to make it work.

For the Ion 1/4" would be okay I would think. But it limits the fasteners (if any) to being small wire brads. The potential issue of relying on glue for butt-joints is the outer ply on the glued faces are the only part doing the joining - so if the internal plys were to separate over time the box could still come apart. Wire brads every 8" or so could help alleviate that perhaps. But 1/4" ply definitely keeps the weight down. Another idea....

That brown fiber board like what's used for peg board is like 1/8" thick but pretty strong and doesn't warp easy, and you can get it without all the holes btw. The top and bottom lid sheets could be this 1/8" pegboard, and all the sides can be 1/2" solid wood to build-up a frame for the pegboard to fasten onto. Which would allow you to use screw/nail fasteners again. The whole thing could be painted black, or covered. That pegboard is pretty cheap stuff cost-wise, but you definitely don't want to soak it in water. A lacquer or poly finish would seal it from rain and humidity.

th0mas · Post by **th0mas** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:55 pm

oh! On topic for this thread: Where would you buy nice, strong latches and hinges?

garranimal · Post by **garranimal** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:03 pm

th0mas wrote:oh! On topic for this thread: Where would you buy nice, strong latches and hinges?

Most of the hardware stores around here have decent latches and hinges. A woodworker supply store might have better inventory.

Post by **bassdude** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:51 pm

Thanks for the info all.

"That brown fiber board like what's used for peg board is like 1/8" thick but pretty strong and doesn't warp easy, and you can get it without all the holes btw"

I think what youre describing is masonite. I considered that stuff, and may wind up using it. Costs on this project arent much of an issue, as im pretty sure ill be able to get everything for free from my work and family.

I wonder if 1 or 2 sheets of masonite with some dense foam on the inside would be enough protection for the top and bottom peices. Again, this case is not going to be something that would need to stand up to touring, but i would like to be able to have it take some very light abuse.

garranimal · Post by **garranimal** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 4:01 am

bassdude wrote:Thanks for the info all.
I think what youre describing is masonite. I considered that stuff, and may wind up using it. Costs on this project arent much of an issue, as im pretty sure ill be able to get everything for free from my work and family.

I wonder if 1 or 2 sheets of masonite with some dense foam on the inside would be enough protection for the top and bottom peices. Again, this case is not going to be something that would need to stand up to touring, but i would like to be able to have it take some very light abuse.

Let us know how it goes, take pics can't wait to see how it all will turn out.

KrisH · Post by **KrisH** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 4:40 am

I haven't made hard cases for my synths (yet), but I've made cases for my pedal boards, lighting boards, and other electronic gear. I overbuild, using 1X boards (actually ablout 3/4") for the sides and ends, joined with babbet joints, and 1/4" ply panels for the broad top and bottom. I brace the top and bottom with 1x2 boards, fill the space between braces with styrofoam, and then line the whole box with foam padding cut and shaped to fit the piece of gear meant to fit inside. Metal hinges, handle, latches and corners finish it off. I have dropped these boxes and not damaged the gear inside. They also make good stands for stacking PA speakers on. They're tough, and not too heavy for what I've made so far. I suspect a case for the D-50 or the K5 might weigh in around 10-15 lbs., though.

lazerface · Post by **lazerface** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:54 am

I built a case a couple of weeks ago so I can have my live set-up just stored in a box, all connected up and ready to go.
Just have to take the lid off, plug in the power board, connect up the mixer line outs and she's ready to go!

It was quite a challenge for me, I was the kid in school that was terrified of power tools and avoided manual labor at all cost.

but I went to bunnings warehouse (huge aussie hardware store),
found some thick plywood cut to 120cm x 50cm,
got some pine side strips,
4 case clip thingies (no hinges),
case handle,
some corner brackets to attach in the inside to make it stronger,
some cheap arse door mats to stick on the inside (that velcro'd gadgets will stick to).

took me about 6 hours to build, in the bedroom of of our tiny apartment, using a drill and a handsaw
with many mistakes made along the way (crooked screws, cracked wood etc),

but hey! I now have a perfectly functional case for a fraction of the price of a pro roadcase.

plus Im real proud of myself

have to admit though, it weighs an absolute ton with an ms2000r/kaoss pad/revolution/moogerfooger/mixer in it.

aredj · Post by **aredj** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 3:43 pm

th0mas wrote:oh! On topic for this thread: Where would you buy nice, strong latches and hinges?

Lee Valley... they have *all* kinds of everything... check it...

You're in ottawa right? They might have a store close to you but, have stores here in Toronto. Their online store is the same s**t and shipping would be a breeze due to native location...

aredj · Post by **aredj** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 3:59 pm

Not exactly the keyboard case youre looking for, but here's what I did few years ago...

I used cedar for the structure because its a light wood and strong... I used Masonite on the the flat surfaces - small enough to not be an issue, but then lined the outside with cedar shims for looks.

Not the most practical thing in the world... I just love building stuff...

th0mas · Post by **th0mas** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:56 pm

aredj wrote:
th0mas wrote:oh! On topic for this thread: Where would you buy nice, strong latches and hinges?
Lee Valley... they have *all* kinds of everything... check it...

Perfect! thanks! Yeah I actually just bought a house basically down the street from there

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