Casio FZ1

[madtheory]

You could write to disc images if you install the Lotharek...

[Baus]

After having it thought over the Lotharek might be a good option too madtheory.

Then my next question is:

How do I create those images?

I am not much of a sample library user so I will need to be able to make images with my own samples, then save those to the card and load them into the FZ-1.

Thanks.

*** edit update: after posting the above I tried another program called FZDUMP. I assumed this utility made use of the special 25-pin cable.... but it does not and dumps samples over MIDI. That's awesome!!! ***

Robin.

[gmeredith]

FZ Dump - yes of course! That's what I used to use and it transferred fine over MIDI - albeit slow. I also have the 25 pin cable and can dump over data port to PC parallel printer port as well - that is much faster - 20 seconds or so for a full RAM load!

I miss my FZ-1

Cheers, Graham

[ahaigh01]

Graham,

What happened to your FZ-1?

edit - just read your other post about it....

[Baus]

Okay.. I am posting this just to make sure that I understand correctly.

Someone has sent me bank files with samples. In a bank are 6 samples layed out over the keyboard.
If I want to add a filter envelope to the whole bank... do I really need to edit each of the 6 samples individually?

Is there a way to copy/paste sample parameters?

Thanks,

Robin.

[gmeredith]

Yes, I think so in a fashion. If you want to copy the envelope of the DCF to be the same as the DCA envelope, at least - p66 of the FZ-1 manual.

In the VOICE EDIT->CREATE VOICE menu ->DCA ENVELOPE menu, at the bottom of the screen is the menu "COPY FROM DCA", and vice versa in the DCF ENVELOPE menu there is "COPY FROM DCA".

If you have different samples that you simply want to copy the envelopes from to be all the same, I think it's a laborious job. You can however do it for one voice, and while you're at that edit menu, press the CALL/SET MENU button, it earmarks that page for you. Now go back the PLAY button, increment the voice number to the next sample, press the CALL/SET MENU button and it will take you directly to that sample edit page you marked, but for the new sample. Saves menu diving.

Cheers, graham

[Baus]

I found out last night that when using the internal waveforms on the FZ-1 the copying process works the other way around.

What I was doing was trying to copy the DCF ENV and DCA ENV settings from one Voice to another. That does not work.

But... when you just make a copy of, for instance, Voice 1 to Voice 2 and then change the Internal Waveform from, for example, Saw (Voice1) to Pulse then you have 2 Voices with exactly the same Settings but with different Waveforms.
This only works this way when using the Internal Waveforms.

[madtheory]

Great thanks. I was trying to figure that out lastnight as well!

[squatski]

I regret selling my FZ10M (rackmount of FZ1)
there was a (possibly top secret) secret thing you could do on it to make it sound gritty like an SP12/1200, I think it was something to do with a loopstart point and changing the value from 0 to 1 ? no idea why it would make it do what it does but it boosts the top end grit if you've sampled at a low rate.

[Baus]

The reason that this happens is because by changing the value from 0 to 1 you create an imperfect loop.

This means that the loop points are no longer on a zero-point crossing and this creates a slight click which, when played back fast one after the other, in the case of a single cycle waveform for instance, seems to create extra harmonic content.

Not sure if this is the top secret you are talking about but it's just my interpretation of it.

[ahaigh01]

So I am replacing the backlights in my 3 FZ units. I have a FZ-1, FZ-10M and FZ-20M. I did the FZ-20M and made it through without causing any dead pixels in the screen. You need to unsolder the leads to the backlight and then deal with the fact that there is a bit of rubbery glue behind the backlight. Probably the best thing is to slide a piece of very thin metal behind the backlight to break the seal and the pull the old one out. In the process I found that the FZ-1 and FZ-10M/20M have 2 different sized backlights. The FZ-1 is sized 46 X 66 mm and the Rack units are 41 X 66 mm. My new backlight was the larger size and I had to trim it down, which worked fine.

Right now I have new backlights on order for the FZ-1 and FZ-10M - one of each size. I have the FZ-1 apart and the old backlight removed (for measurement). Hopefully I did not do any damage to the FZ-1s screen removing the old backlight. All of the insanely delicate ribbon cables appear to be in good condition - no cracking. It's also important not to pry apart the plastic frame of the display to get the old backlight out.

For anyone trying this - The FZ-1 and FZ-10M have very different displays. The FZ-1 is the worse design and if you damage the ribbon cables or contacts around the display you are screwed!

[gmeredith]

Actually the FZ-1 is the easiest of the 3 to change - I'd rather do it any day than replace a 10m backlight

[madtheory]

Seconded- the FZ-1 is straightforward to do. Same as the VZ-1 IIRC.

[ahaigh01]

The new backlight for the FZ-1 arrived and I installed it. No dead rows of pixels! I also replaced the headphone jack which I had accidently broken - flimsy design.... I had replaced the disintegrating foam under the keys a while back. This FZ-1 is now in top shape! Next up, the HxC floppy emulator.

[Baus]

Okay, that's good to know. I am about to change the backlight on my unit as well.