My junk Juno 60

[Floss]

OKAY. I installed the battery. IT WORKS! I took a battery holder, Solder a red and black wire to the Battery joint, and then taped the battery so its completely covered then taped it to the metal part of the back panel. Patches can now be saved. I wanna calibrate it, I know that there are some ROTARY, or factory patches that need to be on in the calibration process as stated in the manual. Are those patches (in the 80---and on... ) gone?

chorus: STILL WORKS... altho, its SLIGHTLY faint on the right side. Maybe because of that connection.

This is a project for me. I have to learn sooner or later. Now, I want to fix those joints. I want the conductivity to be at maximum. You explained to me what went wrong. What do I need to get to get the silver part around the pin back since it melted away. Also, the flux was NOT from my iron, it was from the joint...underneath the silver was made red/pink material. Please respond! thanks!!!

[synthparts]

The pins with the lifted pads could have traces going to them on the other side of the board. Roland often used dual sided boards. Yes you should get an iron with a temp control and you probably shouldn't use a vintage synth to learn how to solder on.

[Floss]

Okay, again. How do I re-pad (or make the connectivity back as it was, or close to) ? I got it for cheap. This is what I feel comfortable learning on.

Also with temp control... what temperature do you guys use? thanks.

[rhino]

Since these are not power carrying leads, you look good to go. Do check the other side of the board where the pad is gone to make sure there is /is not a trace hooked there also.
The red-pink stuff may have been the underside of the ruined pad...copper can turn that kind of color from excessive heat.

On vintage brown composition circuit boards like this, I set the heat for 600-620 F. Newer Fiberglas boards (gray, white, clear-ish) can take more so I'll go about 680 F. The temp is NOT the only factor! You need to learn how to get the job done fast: Too long a contact with the iron will kill any PC boards.

A good (but not the only) method of restoring a burned-off pad is to form a tiny "eye" loop in the end of a piece of bare copper wire 24-30 ga. Make it to fit over the pin of the componet that was soldered to the former pad. Carefully scrape the green coating - NOT THE COPPER - on the trace back about 1/4 inch. Melt the solder on the pin and set the wire loop over it and let it cool. Cut the wire off to fit the bare spot on the trace. Place a heat sink or alligator clip on the pin and solder the wire tail to the trace.

[Floss]

you lost me after "since"

okay, which green coating? the board? or the the light green trace paths on the board??

[rhino]

To start with, the traces that are half gone do not need to be repaired. If you must, don't do more damage than you fix!

Can't seem to get tinypicts to work.
Anyway, the light green stripes on the board are the copper traces hidden under the green coating. You must carefuly scrape that coating back a little way and solder a new wire from it to the lead of the componet.

[Floss]

To start with, the traces that are half gone do not need to be repaired. If you must, don't do more damage than you fix!

Can't seem to get tinypicts to work.
Anyway, the light green stripes on the board are the copper traces hidden under the green coating. You must carefuly scrape that coating back a little way and solder a new wire from it to the lead of the componet.

Okay i totally understand. So what will melt the copper AROUND the hold to the pcb board then? Flux? like how does it stick to the board


try here http://postimage.org/

Youre right, I might just leave it as is... This is a very informative thread by the way! thanks alot for your contribution

[rhino]

You do NOT want to melt the copper! The thin film of copper was stuck to the board with glue. The excess heat has ruined this glue and the copper has come off. You need to replace the short part that is gone with a wire.


Thanks.
The red shows the area to scrape the green coating off. The yellow shows the wire repair.

[Floss]

now i totally understand what you are saying. So, since the path isn't actually hindered! it is still good and I don't need to repair, because the copper going to the green path is still intact.