Soldering on boards

[bezoomnyveshch]

I should probably mention, the OS is 1.7. One of these days I'm going to spring for the 3.5 EPROMS. Maybe that will solve the problem.

And also I know I hinted that the ESQ1 was analog, but I know it's a hybrid. What I meant to say was I'm nervous about opening up old synths or fooling around with them since I'm afraid to ruin something at every turn. I was pretty much half asleep at the time, so I felt the need to correct it just for my own conscience.

[bezoomnyveshch]

UPDATE: I realized that the transmit speed from my sysex librarian was too fast for the ESQ-1, so I slowed it down and now all banks are "working again." Apparently they were all along, things just didn't transmit because of my stupidity.

[garranimal]

The best weapon for this kind of problem is a Metcal Iron and some DIL "tunnel" desoldering bits. These irons use RF as a heating medium and are amazingly good at getting vast amounts of heat into a joint - even when a huge desoldering bit is fitted.

http://www.metcal.com/products/mx5010

OK I've pulled my Multitrak off the shelf again and checking ALL circuit traces and applying jumpers to any that have gone amok.

ALSO, I have discovered a neat trick and I didn't have to buy any additional bits or tools. I start by cutting away the defective chip at the leads and take the chip pins down level with the board using a wire cutter. This leaves solder pins in the sockets. THEN, taking a stainless steel T-pin at the hole I push down while applying my soldering iron. It pushes out the old ic pin and works like a charm! The stainless T-pin won't solder to the through plating so when it is wiggled out it leaves a nice clean channel. If done quickly 5-10 seconds the T-pin will not burn your hand.

[HideawayStudio]

The best weapon for this kind of problem is a Metcal Iron and some DIL "tunnel" desoldering bits. These irons use RF as a heating medium and are amazingly good at getting vast amounts of heat into a joint - even when a huge desoldering bit is fitted.

http://www.metcal.com/products/mx5010

OK I've pulled my Multitrak off the shelf again and checking ALL circuit traces and applying jumpers to any that have gone amok.

ALSO, I have discovered a neat trick and I didn't have to buy any additional bits or tools. I start by cutting away the defective chip at the leads and take the chip pins down level with the board using a wire cutter. This leaves solder pins in the sockets. THEN, taking a stainless steel T-pin at the hole I push down while applying my soldering iron. It pushes out the old ic pin and works like a charm! The stainless T-pin won't solder to the through plating so when it is wiggled out it leaves a nice clean channel. If done quickly 5-10 seconds the T-pin will not burn your hand.

Yes - I have done a similar thing in the past with stubborn PTH holes - I find that stainless MIG welding wire works an absolute treat for this.

[garranimal]

Off Topic

FYI I'm purging this MultTrak from my many projects. Getting nowhere and have much to do.
http://www.vintagesynth.com/forum/viewt ... =9&t=50028

[Soldertraining]

While soldering on circuit boards if it gets burnt a little bit, so don't worry about the traces. They are okay, they are not damaged.

[Soldertraining]

If you have little knowledge about electronics, don't solder the battery. Soldering requires technical skill in which special tools are used for soldering. If you want to solder the board, it takes some precautions that you have to follow. Put the tip of the iron on the pad so that it heats both the lead of the part and the pad of the circuit board. Heat them for a second before you apply the solder. Remove the iron and the solder wire and inspect your solder joint to see if it looks okay. A good solder joint has kind of a cone shape.

[Jamesbarnhart]

Soldering on board is not an easy task. It requires professional training like solder certification to become an expert.